This month, the TasteAtlas platform, which maps user reviews and gastronomic criticism around the world, announced that barreado, a typical dish from the coast of Paraná, has won yet another recognition. After receiving the title of Geographical Indication of Brazil in 2022, the delicacy was elected the third best recipe with meat and bacon in the world.
ADETUR COASTAL
For the executive director of Adetur Litoral, José Reis, known as Juca, barreado deserves all this recognition and emphasizes that the dish is typical of the coastal region of Paraná. “All recognition is good, we already knew that, because it is incredible when people try barreado made the right way, served the right way, they are amazed by the flavor of barreado. It is a very tasty, delicious and balanced dish, the elements in it favor the dish, the caiçara created a dish that does not exist, right, the way it is cooked, so it is a different, unique dish. And this only reinforces that we have a dish, in addition to being exclusive, that does not exist anywhere else and has no variations, barreado is only found in the coastal region”, highlighted José Reis, known as Juca.
Juca emphasized that barreado originated with the Caiçaras and not with the Portuguese. “We need to stop the guesswork, because they think that barreado is from the Azores, from Furnas, from the cattle drivers, but we need to stop thinking that barreado is from the Caiçaras, because all the historical evidence points to the Caiçara, but then someone comes along and says that it is not from the Caiçaras, it is from another culture, so it is complicated. I think that people wanting to be European speak louder and we end up ignoring who is the true creator of barreado. There is no doubt about who made barreado, it is made by the Caiçaras, if they ate it during Carnival, this is historically recorded, it is unquestionable. Now they have invented that the origin is Portuguese, Azorean, this does not match, there is no data at all, it is all guesswork, there is no historical proof that barreado is Portuguese. If you are going to look at a similarity with stews, barreado could be Italian, French, or brought by the Jews, so we have to look at the context, what were the first stews. Now, you don't have barreado like this anywhere else in the world,” explained Juca.
In 2022, barreado received the Geographical Indication (GI) seal. The seal is a guarantee of the preparation and quality standards granted to typical products from a certain region. “The seal is extremely important, it is an indication that barreado is a dish from the coastal region of Paraná. The seal is always beneficial and protects barreado from misuse. For example, in Curitiba there is stewed barreado, but you can find real barreado here on the coast,” he pointed out.
The evaluation, conducted by the TasteAtlas platform, considered dishes with scores ranging from 1 to 5 stars, and the barreado shone with an overall score of 3,9 stars, earning a prominent place on the podium. “Being among the top three dishes in the world is something few people can do, but this is important because it showcases the barreado it deserves. Getting to know the traditional way of making barreado is an unparalleled experience, it is proof of the survival of the colonizers in our region. They adapted to the indigenous way of cooking using flour and bananas, making a stew that only exists here in a rudimentary way, the only rustic way of cooking in Brazil. Congratulations to the caiçara, to the coastal people, for having this unique delicacy in the world,” said Juca.
NORMA SANTOS FREITAS
The owner of Casa do Barreado and Chef de Cuisine, Norma Santos de Freitas, told us about when people first started making this typical coastal dish. “Families used to make it during Carnival, which is how we learned in 1967. Its importance is as great as the Culture and History of the Coast and the State of Paraná,” she said.
Norma explained that she learned the barreado she prepares today from her own family. “I prepare barreado when there is a reservation and on weekends. The techniques used are the same as those recorded in history over 200 years ago, I learned them from my family,” she said.
The famous coastal dish was voted the third best recipe with meat and bacon in the world. She believes the award gives the dish more visibility, but she regrets that there are publications claiming that barreado is of Azorean origin, when in fact it is from the coast of Paraná. “Without a doubt, it is an award that gives great visibility to Barreado. I only regret that historical records such as the “II Brazilian Folklore Congress, 1953”, which recorded the origin of barreado as being on the coast of Paraná and not in the Azores, and included an ingredient, which is tomato, that did not even exist here at that time. There are countless records in the IHGP and Mandicuera, about barreado that were not researched, as if the oral and recorded history in Paranaguá were not worthy of importance. See once again the disrespect for our city,” she exclaimed.
One of the curiosities of barreado happened in 1861. “When the war with Paraguay ended, in 1861, only Barreado, on “Fat Sunday” resisted the sadness of the war period. These are examples of historical records and currently we have records of people from all over the world, who are enchanted and surprised by the flavor of Barreado, originating from our Caiçara”, concluded Norma.
MARIA VENITA LIPORINI
The owner of Doce Vida Refeições and Chef Maria Venita Liporini said that she learned how to prepare barreado in the city of Morretes. “I learned how to make barreado in the city of Morretes, many years ago, with Professor Helmosa Salomão Richter (in memoriam), a very special person who taught us and masterfully represented our barreado and fandango, both typical of our coast, for over 40 years in many places in Brazil. I also learned the importance of this dish from Professor Helmosa, from her I understood, even back then, that it was not just a meal, but a form of affection, where we serve the joy of gathering those we love at our table with abundance and celebration. Over the years, this understanding has grown stronger, because the phrase “Let’s make a Barreado” is always accompanied by family gatherings, good stories and celebrations. Thus, the typical dish of our Coast, Barreado, is synonymous with love and dedication to all those who taste it”, he highlighted.
The Chef prepares the delicacy every week and has been doing so for 25 years. According to her, the company serves around a thousand meals a day on site. “At our company, Doce Vida Refeições, we serve barreado to our customers every Saturday. It can be picked up directly at the counter, in combos and lunch boxes. Since we have perfected the supply of industrial meals for companies over the course of 25 years of business, we do not have a restaurant open to the public. However, as we have always had great relationships with our customers throughout our history, cultivated with our service, in the preparation of each dish, our individual customers pick up their lunch boxes on site every day. We currently serve around 1 thousand meals a day in total, and of course, on Saturdays, Barreado is the biggest hit, a time when our customers and friends meet, chat and are able to take this dish, so full of history and love, home to their families,” she said.
“Our production begins at least two days before the final result, with the careful selection of the necessary ingredients, such as meat, seasonings, among others. Next, we begin portioning out the ingredients and pre-cooking them. Once everything is organized, the large pot is closed, traditionally done with flour and water on its edges, and it cooks for up to 12 hours, depending on the heat. Once it reaches its desired consistency, you can smell it from a distance, making you want to try it. As I mentioned before, I learned a lot from old people in this preparation, and over the years I have perfected it with some special techniques and seasonings, and like every good chef, there is that little bit of secret, resulting in the current result, which has pleased everyone who tastes it,” added the Chef.
Maria Venita Liporini emphasized that the dish is typical of the coast of Paraná and was thrilled with the result of the election that awarded the dish worldwide. “Barreado, a typical dish from the coast of Paraná, is already a regional symbol, and this worldwide recognition only confirms its history, where this dish combines the most beautiful ingredients of life, the joy of gathering family and friends, accompanied by a remarkable meal! This title makes our entire region proud, after all, there are several segments that work around this dish, promoting gastronomic tourism and the growth of the local economy in our cities. In addition, we must remember that nothing happens overnight, after all, everything requires a lot of work and perseverance, so this award is also nostalgic, and we must not forget those who passed their teachings from generation to generation, in all the cities on our coast, always with enthusiasm and great affection so that we could reach this moment. May this award also be an incentive for our managers, through their tourism departments, to increasingly explore this delicacy, now recognized worldwide,” he pointed out.
Traditionally, barreado was prepared as a festive dish, served at weddings, baptisms and birthdays, as well as at community and religious festivals. It was also made during harvesting parties in coastal communities. “Our Barreado dates back many years, to the colonial period, and its origins are associated with traditional festivals such as carnivals, given its energy value and long-lasting flavor. The story also goes that it was served to cattle drivers who passed through the region to sell yerba mate and in collectives that carried out various activities in our society, always involving many people. And in this sense, our Barreado remains synonymous with joy, celebration and abundance, and today it can be found in practically all of our coastal cities, in great restaurants! A tip: this is a great dish to be served at weddings, birthdays and get-togethers, it is usually a huge hit, and today it is one of the three best dishes in the world involving meat and bacon”, concluded Maria.
